Philadelphia Inquirer's Food Critic on the Rotolo: "The single greatest morsel - Brad Spence's brilliant rotolo - came from the wood-fired realm of Pizzeria Vetri, the best of a bumper crop of artisan 'za-makers this year. And the rotolo isn't even a pizza. But this crunchy-edged pinwheel of pizza dough coiled up with mortadella and ricotta, then topped with pistachio pesto, incited moans of wonder every time."