BRIEF: “Making great tawny port is a time-consuming business. Port wine that starts life fiery and purple and aggressive must be gently softened and mellowed, the rough edges smoothed away, the fire replaced by warmth, the purple slowly lightened to russet and chestnut and amber. All this happens in old barrels placed in dark cool cellars and barely disturbed for years. Well, Kopke have had enough practice. They are the oldest Port house in existence, being founded in 1638. This lovely wine is positively rich, but blends a heady, raisiny warmth with the freshness of rosehip and red cherries. Kopke have won Trophies at the International Wine Challenge, the International Wine and Spirit Competition and the Decanter World Wine Awards.” SOOT’S TAKE: With that description, who could resist with the cheese plate I opted for dessert?